All states are the same size. You open the map and there it is, every state fits the page. This is misleading. As it so happens, Wisconsin is a really big state.
It looks good on paper to wind your way winsomely across the wigglies. But damn, it takes a long time to get just a measly half-inch across the page. So … this “one day” trip from Rochester to La Porte will take two good days of riding.
Every stranger has a story to share. If they walk up and start a conversation with Spaceman Sam by his Starship Enterprise then there is something they really want to say. Look, I’m sure I don’t look very inviting in full riding gear and body armor. If someone says ‘hi’ then I really want to hear their story!
Stranger 1: Half drunk old dude with two teenage kids at the cold lonely Cody Wyoming KOA.
Story 1: He used to take his wife 2-up on an old Harley. She liked it but the tiny seat was uncomfortable. The moment she saw an old 83 Gold Wing, they simply had to buy it. He restored it and they love going for rides together. He’s 50-something and she’s 78.
Stranger 2: Sweet young thang waitress at the Viking Family Restaurant in Reedsport Wisconsin. She might weigh 120 pounds if she’s carrying seventeen pounds of food.
Story 2: She had a nice old custom Harley knucklehead, but it just didn’t have enough power to do wheelies with the boys. So she sold it and got a Suzuki. Later traded that for another bike. But had to sell that when she had kids. Now she wonders if you can carry children in a sidecar…
This is God’s country. And God’s neglected cattle. And God’s electric fence with God’s geodetic survey marker.
I love yardbirds and it’s rare to see them. So what a delightful find to discover a good collection!
What a contrast in cultures. I ride over the Mississippi River at La Crosse and am soon on the backroads of Wisconsin. I encounter several Amish people as I ride through this lush hilly country.
This feels very disconcerting to ride the best high-performance and comfortable motorcycle that technology has to offer, when passing a horse and buggy. Indeed, the Amish people are only using the reflective orange technology under protest.
I continue riding along for a very long time. The roads are nice and scenic when I’m off the interstate but it’s not exactly high-speed riding. My map shows me a KOA kampground in Wisconsin Dells and it looks nice enough.
I wonder what genius decided to build a campground along a busy rail line. Funny, it wasn’t mentioned on the KOA web page.









